Sunday, June 5 2005

 


Blessed with several days of splendid weather, we took advantage of the beauty of Savoie; on Thursday, after classes and lunch, Prof Jeantet and three students went up to the village of Montmin to have a look at the mountains close up.

We started at the "Seven Fountains" which are a local religious shrine. Although claimed by Christianity since time immemorial, the shrine is almost certainly more than two thousand years old and Celtic/Gaulish in origin: the Gauls built many shrines at the spring of rivers, and since the torrent which starts here runs down to a village which bears the name of a Celtic water goddess, the pagan origin of the shrine seems certain. Alexandra rubbed some of the water on some scratches, since the waters are reputed to be good for afflictions of the skin.

We then proceeded to the Forclaz pass, from which we had an excellent view of Lake Annecy. We could see paragliders flying high in the sky, and could hear the ringing of cow bells all around.

We went to see some of the cows, of the Alpine Tarine breed, whose milk is used to make several local cheeses, the most famous of which are Reblochon and Tomme de Savoie. We all agreed that, for a cow, this was the life: green pastures, clean air, and friendly farmers.


We had the opportunity to learn when exactly "the cows come home" as we watched two herds heading slowly back uphill to the farm for the afternoon milking. Needless to say, the cows have right of way on the narrow roads.

Friday, we skipped classes to take part in our first day-long field trip. Since the weather was excellent, we chose to go to the high Alps instead of to Geneva. Our bus left Faverges shortly after 8:30 and started on the long and winding road to Chamonix valley, where we were to explore the area and take some rides that even Cedar Point cannot approach.

Arriving at Chamonix, we took advantage of the lack of lines to ride the téléphérique up to the Aiguille du Midi, whose 3800-meter-high summit towers nearly two miles overhead and from which we can have an unparalleled view of the mountains.


We rode a cablecar to an intermediate station, and then embarked in another for the second leg to the mountaintop. The ride is especially impressive as there are no supports at all for the cables between the bottom and top, so that we are pulled upwards well over a mile in one fell swoop. The photo at right is taken at the halfway point, where the up and down cablecars pass each other at a surprisingly fast clip.

We did a little physics experiment: Before we started on our way upwards, Prof Jeantet asked the students to look in their picnic lunches for bags of potato chips (or "sheeps" as the French call them). In the photos below, we see Michelle at the bottom of the mountain, displaying her bag which looks quite normal; Adam is photographed at the top of the Aiguille du Midi, where his bag of chips (like everyone else's) has swollen almost to bursting, showing the effect of the reduced air pressure at the top of the mountain, which is over 12,000 feet high, well above the altitude beyond which airplanes must be pressurized.


We strolled from the main station to the rocky piton on top of which is an observation deck, part of which was being rebuilt. We were reassured to see that we were standing on very thick, new wooden boards...


We rode an elevator another ten stories to the very top, where the sun was warm despite the freezing air temperature. We were still a full kilometer lower than the top of Mt Blanc, and we watched as microscopically small mountain climbers inched their way up the huge white mountain.

The view below shows what we could see facing us: from the mountains of Switzerland to the left, to the cloud-covered Po valley of Italy in the center, and finally the Mt Blanc massif at right.

">


In the far distance, we could see the top of the famed Matterhorn, the third highest mountain in the Alps. From our vantage point, we could see into France, Italy and Switzerland just by turning our heads a few degrees.

Taking advantage of the small number of tourists on the platform, we sat down for the highest lunch we are ever likely to have sitting on solid ground. Lindsey pointed out that while her face was baking in the sun, her back was freezing. Fortunately all of the students had remembered to bring both sunscreen and sweaters, so that we all were none the worse for wear.

">

We took our time enjoying the view and snapping countless photographs. We agreed to meet at the bottom of the mountain at 2:30 so that we could continue on to our next destination.

In the photo at right, we can see Casey standing on a transparent tile above the chasm. Those who have been in Toronto's CN Tower may remember the difficulty that one has to trust the strength of the glass...

And then it was time to ride back to the valley floor; Angela gripped the metal bar firmly as she stared through the plexiglass windows. We were crowded in with several climbers who had been to the top of Mt Blanc earlier in the day and who were taking the easy way down.

Michelle expertly elbowed her way past a number of agitated Asian tourists so that she could get a good view as the gondola sped downwards.

We rode our chartered bus to the train station, where we soon boarded a cog railway heading to the Montenvers mountain; we learned that the rail line is now a hundred years old, though the electric trains are far more recent.

The train wended its way up the mountainside, passing through groves of larches and past ancient wooden chalets. The half-hour ride was smooth but noisy, as the screw mechanism that provides traction is built for safety rather than quietness, for which we were all grateful.

At Montenvers, we had to climb a long way down to the glacier which now fills only the bottom of the valley floor as the climate continues to warm. A dozen students chose to walk down, the others rode a cablecar to an intermediate level, from which we had to descend the equivalent of another ten stories to the ice cave entrance.

We visited the tourist ice cave but paused to view the beautiful color of the ice which, near the entrance, filters the sunlight and glows as green as a swimming pool. The photo at right is quite accurate in reproducing the color, though one must realize that we were standing inside what is essentially an enormous icebox.


The students who had walked down to the ice cave chose, not surprisingly, to ride the cablecar back up. The modern cablecars are impressive in design, and none of the students appeared this year to have any qualms about riding any of the strange contraptions that people build on mountains for the benefit of tourism.

The photo below is actually a montage of a dozen photographs, and shows much of the scene that spread before us. Of course, no image can convey the enormous scope of the scenery which we had the privilege to see. A larger (but still much-reduced) version of the photo below can be viewed by clicking on the image below. For those interested in such details, the original assembled photo is about 68 million pixels large and took my computer over two hours to assemble. It covers a bit over 180 degrees horizontally.

After we'd all had plenty of time to absorb the remarkable view, we assembled on the train platform to wait for the ride down the mountain.


Our bus was waiting for us, and we were glad to board for the ride home as the sky started to cloud over.

We had been to altitude twice in a day, with the result that we were all quite tired despite not having done all that much walking and little climbing. Students were chatting about going out that evening, little realizing what a toll the altitude had taken on them...

The photo below shows the students on the ride back to Faverges. A very quiet ride, as it turns out!

Saturday, many of the students went into Annecy for shopping and exploring. They were all due back in Faverges that evening for the Association Faverges-Akron dinner dance that was being staged in their honor.

Expertly catered as always by Yvette Millot, the dinner was a great success. The affair was held in Faverges municipal party room, where many groups hold affairs, fund-raisers, dinners, conferences, and even book fairs..
Music was provided by two musicians who sang and played a dazzling array of songs from the past sixty years. Rock'n'roll was favored, though polkas and waltzes were also performed.

Adam turns out to be a veritable dancing machine. He danced the whole evening long with abandon and enthusiasm!


We must of course mention and thank the people who worked, those who toiled selflessly in the kitchen the whole evening long; in the photo at right, we can see Yvette Millot and Agnès Ballieu, without whose dedication the party would not have been possible.

Monday morning, we'll be visiting the Stäubli factory and then having classes. A number of visits are in the works, including a tour of the communities around Faverges this coming Wednesday afternoon. As the weather allows, we'll be heading back into the mountains to see some more vistas.

Next report, probably Thursday.

 


Page and images ©2001, 2005 by
End of the page



 

 

Renée Michelle Amy Angela Casey Lindsey Adam Stephanie Kelli